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THE FORGOTTEN CARIBBEAN – PART III JAMAICA

We have been anchored in the Bay of Feret, Ile a Vache, Haiti and are preparing to set sail for Jamaica. Jamaica is an extraordinary destination and so often overlooked by the cruising community. Many have asked about crime in Jamaica. There is no denying that Jamaica has crime. However, the vast majority of the crime takes place in the ghettos of Kingston and in almost all cases Jamaicans are the victims of it. Thousands of tourists arrive on cruise ships and many more people stay at the many hotels in Jamaica without incident.
The Jamaican mountains and countryside are exceptional and will leave you breathless. In addition there is Jamaican Culture. It is diverse, exotic and vibrant. The colors, the food, the people all come together to form an impression that is distinct in the Caribbean. Last but not least, are those Jamaica smiles; you will never forget them!

JAMAICAN SMILES AT THE OPEN MARKET IN PORT ANTONIO

Our destination will be Port Antonio at the south east corner of the island.

As Caribbean islands go, Jamaica is one of the larger ones and has mountain ranges that affect wind, particularly at night. Our sail to Port Antonio is westbound and the current will be with us. The distance is approximately 150 miles. We want to make our departure with an assurance of continued tradewinds, or if it is early in the tradewind season and a norther is blowing, we want to catch the norther as it peters out. Either way we should have a good sail. If we depart at 0900 hours, most boats should make landfall in Jamaica between 0800 and 1200 hours the following day.
Overnight we may have reduced winds as the Katabatic winds of both Jamaica and the Dominican Republic will reduce the tradewinds. However, if we want to sail with the full force of the trades, then we need to get out of the shadow of the islands and stand offshore at least 5 miles or more. In such a case we would plan our westing by going to the south (west southwest) and then come back up to our destination.
We must also take into account Formigas Bank which lies approximately 31 miles northeast off of Jamaica’s northeast corner. While it poses no significant problem for us, it needs to be taken into consideration, as in heavy weather it breaks and there is a navigation hazard as well. Avoiding it is a simple matter. Formigas Bank is a rocky bank with less than 60’ of water for the greater part of its area. At the NE corner of the bank the water is about 15’ deep. It is about 16 miles in length from SW to NE. During strong trade winds, the north end of the bank breaks with a heavy swell running. The most dangerous part of the bank is an old stranded wreck which is sometimes visible. It is located at GPS: 18 31.45N, 75 45.47W and is noted on most charts.

FORMIGAS BANK
We will make our landfall at Port Antonio which is an easy entry. As we approach we will see the John Brown Mountains as well as the Blue Mountains of Jamaica. The sight is quite imposing and if the day is clear no description can do it justice. The lighthouse at Port Antonio is easy to spot and we will leave it to port as we enter.

FOLLY LIGHTHOUSE

PORT ANTONIO
The Errol Flynn Marina is located at Port Antonio and you can take a slip or anchor out. The marina and the boat yard are owned by the Jamaica Port of Authority and run under the supervision of Dale Westin. You will find him and his staff to be very accommodating. Raise them on channel 16. Entrance procedures are straightforward and there is no charge of any type. You will be boarded by a Quarantine officer, Customs and also Immigration. Be sure to have your quarantine flag flying as well as your Jamaican courtesy flag. Jamaica has had 300 years of British tradition and while everyone is cordial, following protocol and procedure is considered important.
Once cleared in, you will find yourself in a wonderful town. There is an open market which is very active on the weekends. There you will find fruit and vegetables as well as a crafts market. The handicrafts market is wonderful as are the people you will meet there.

ONE SIZE FITS ALL MON!

You can walk the market safely and you will find most of the people helpful and engaging. The town also has a supermarket as well as banks. The marina has free WiFi for those that want a connection. At the marina there are also a number of good restaurants as well as a nice beach. You can take any number of day trips from Port Antonio and go rafting or to more remote beaches.
When we are ready to leave Port Antonio, we will proceed westward to Ocho Rios. Ocho Rios is an easy overnight stop enroute to Montego Bay at a distance of just over 45 miles to the west. You will have the wind and the current in your favor. Early in the tradewind season the north coast of Jamaica can become quite lively and if a norther is forecasted and you are in a secure harbor such as Port Antonio, you should stay put. In normal conditions and even a mild norther, you will find Ocho Rios suitable. Ocho Rios is a tourist town in every sense of the word. Cruise ships call there frequently and discharge boatloads of visitors. In addition, Ocho Rios has its fair share of hotels. If you like a lively setting filled with people this is your town. From Ocho Rios we continue west and can make stops at St. Ann’s Bay and Discovery Bay along the way. (For details on these harbors, see the free downloadable cruising guide to Jamaica at: www.jamaicacruisingguide.com).
Montego Bay is our next major stop and is approximately 50 miles east of Ocho Rios. It is not the perfect refuge in a norther but tucked in at the yacht club, one can make due. However in the rare instance if conditions get beyond a normal norther, one can enter Bogue Lagoon. The Montego Bay Yacht Club is a wonderful club with really nice facilities. You will find the staff to be very accommodating. They have a small daily charge to use the facilities, which include the pool, the club, and really fine bathrooms and showers. Their lunches and dinners are very moderately priced and well presented. As you exit the marina by taxi, to the right is Bogue Lagoon and the Houseboat at the Lagoon also serves great meals in a very nice setting.
There is a “Sam’s Club” type supermarket close to the yacht club if you need to reprovision in a serious way. A cab can take you there in 10 minutes or so. Montego Bay also has a wonderful crafts market that should not be missed. It is full of color, very safe and some of the craftwork is quite good. The vendors are very nice people, albeit a little persistent. If you are not ready to buy, simply say “little more time, Mon, little more time” (locally it sounds like “likle more time Mon”). Smile when you say it, and everyone will lighten up. You do need to bargain the price and a 20 to 30% discount is normal. Do not over negotiate as a few dollars one way or the other will not change your life, but means a great deal to these vendors. The cruise ships do not call at this market en masse and you will find the vendors very anxious to please you. The more you smile the better it is. Jamaicans have a keen sense of humor and smile and laugh a great deal.
There is also the “Hip Strip” where you will find a long line of different restaurants to suit different tastes and pocketbooks.
When we leave Montego Bay we head for Negril, an easy sail of 25 miles. We can anchor on the west coast of Jamaica in a beautiful and very protected anchorage. From there we can watch the most dramatic sunsets.

JAMAICAN SUNSETS–UNIQUE
Nothing much to do, but relax and take it all in. Most of this coast is taken up by beachside hotels and we can land if we want to see the hotel facilities. Most often we can have the guard on the beach keep an eye on the dinghy.
When we are ready to leave Negril, the Bluefields Anchorage is 25 miles to the east along the south coast of Jamaica If we do this early in the morning, we can avoid strong easterlies that get up and blow daily from about 1100 hours. In addition, the western part of Jamaica is in somewhat of a lee as Portland Point extends near 30 miles into the sea. Bluefields is a simple and very pretty anchorage. There are no shoreside diversions and the view is basically nice homes. You will anchor in 10’ of water and find yourself very protected from sea and wind. If we choose not to stop at Bluefields, we can go the extra 12 miles to make it to Black River. The Black River is Jamaica’s longest river. The town of Black River is a nice town. It is set on the river and today is active with eco-tourism. The river is famous for its birds, herons and snowy egrets among many others, and for its crocodiles. There is a bridge over the mouth of the river which unfortunately does not allow for sailboats to go upriver. There is a dock at the mouth of the
river that carries 8’. More than that and you will have to anchor out and
dinghy in. The Black River Bay is reasonably well protected and provides for very adequate shelter and good holding. If you like nature, stop at the river and arrange for a guide at the bridge to take the tour up river. It is extraordinary! The guide can assist you with having your boat watched if you leave no one aboard.

Wildlife on the river is a never ending show

From the Black River we can continue our discovery of Jamaica and plan stops at Portland Bight, Kingston Harbor and finally Port Morant at the SE corner of the island. Portland Bight is a large protected bay with many cays and is often used by local yachtsmen especially on the weekends. A comfortable distance from Portland Bight going east is Kingston Harbor. It is the 7th largest harbor in the world, and aside from the intensity of commercial traffic you will find it safe. As you go up harbor, you can stop at Lime Cay, which is a beautiful stop and wait until morning to continue to Port Royal or the Royal Jamaican Yacht Club. Whether you stop at Lime Cay or go all the way to Port Royal or the Royal Jamaican Yacht Club, get an early start, as once the wind gets up in Kingston Harbor it is no small matter. Gusts to 30 knots are not unusual once the sun is up and the plateau heats up.

LIME CAY/KINGSTON HARBOR

The Royal Jamaican Yacht club is very inviting and well situated. It is located within a stone’s throw of the airport if you are picking up or discharging crew. Reprovisioning is easy and there are many interesting attractions, not the least of which is the Bob Marley museum. With the help of one of the recommended taxi vans, the trip around town will be inexpensive and safe. Port Royal is just west and south of the yacht club and well worth a visit.
Port Morant is the last harbor in Jamaica on the south side at the east end. It is truly a beautiful stop, well protected with a backdrop of mountains. The small marina that was here has been given over to the Coast Guard and Marine Police. They will offer you dockage free as well as water if you want to tie up at their more than ample wharf. Or anchor out off the dock for more privacy and, at sunset, less mosquitoes. Port Morant may well be the best kept secret in Jamaica.