April 21, 2012: Free Cruising Guides announced today that it has just received a message of greeting from the Puerto Rico Tourism Company, the island’s official tourist center, for sailors and boaters of all kinds.

González-LaFuente extols Puerto Rico as “the perfect port for a nautical vacation,” noting the island’s unique cultural heritage, its 500 years of history exemplified in its numerous historic sites, its fabled white sand beachs, adventure opportunities galore, gourmet cuisine, and exciting nightlife. All of this and more is highlighted in A Cruising Guide to Puerto Rico 1.3 as seen through the lens of experienced cruiser and author, Frank Virgintino, who wrote the guide to assist cruisers in planning their cruising adventure and making it the experience of a lifetime and Puerto Rico a worthy repeat destination.

The letter from Mario González-LaFuente, Executive Director of the Puerto Rico Tourism Company, opens A Cruising Guide to Puerto Rico, Edition 1.3, which is available free to download at www.freecruisingguides.com.

The Caribbean is actually a much larger geographic location than just the Lesser Antilles ; the leeward and windward islands. It encompasses islands that include Cuba and the Dominican Republic; the two largest in the Caribbean as well as many others including the ABC islands (Aruba, Curacao and Bonaire). It also includes Jamaica, Haiti, the Cayman Islands, Puerto Rico and the San Blas Islands. Mainland countries such as Venezuela and Columbia are also part of the Caribbean. Most sailors would agree that the Caribbean extends from Cuba in the northwest to Trinidad in the southeast and everything in between. How is it then that the Lesser Antilles so dominate the sailing spirit of the cruising community that they are the islands most visited, when in fact they are out east and thus the hardest to get to? Simply put, we accept what we are told and we have been told that the Eastern Caribbean is the place to cruise in the Caribbean. Yet if you look at the map, either Cuba or the Dominican Republic could easily encompass virtually every island in the Caribbean and have space left over. However, our perception of those islands is that they are hard to negotiate because they are Spanish speaking. Or in the case of Haiti, French speaking. Jamaica is English speaking but has had bouts of high crime that has kept sailors away. Cuba has a different problem, at least for Americans it is off limits.

The result is that the western part of the Caribbean and in particular the north western part has been forgotten and is not frequently cruised as a destination but used more as stopping points to go east. Luperon, on the north shore of the Dominican Republic is an excellent example. Those cruising boats that come south and do not take the offshore route, take the “thorny path.” That path is taken by island hopping through the Bahamas and the Turks and Caicos and then going southeast to Luperon. From Luperon one makes ones’ easting on the north shore of the Domincan Republic, not as a cruising destination but as a means to get to the Mona Passage to transit the south shore of Puerto Rico to the Virgin Islands. The Dominican Republic is overlooked and all of its immense shoreline and many virgin and pristine harbors bypassed.

We can return from the eastern Caribbean and instead of heading north at Puerto Rico, head west. Or we could as an alternative to heading east, come through the Windward Passage on a reach and avoid all that beating to windward. The Windward Passage is usually a reach to a broad reach headed south and cuts between Haiti to port and Cuba to starboard. It is a safe passage without a need to call at any harbor in Haiti or Cuba. The US naval base is at Guantanamo at the SE corner of Cuba and the island of Navassa (US owned) is just west of the corner of Haiti. The United States uses the island from time to time to stage naval vessels that work at drug interdiction. Going through the Windward Passage is normally an enjoyable sail under prevailing conditions and a safe one as well.
Once through, to starboard is Jamaica; an easy landfall with the wind and current in your favor. To port is the Island of Isle a Vache, Haiti, which is both beautiful and very safe and then the south Coast of the Dominican Republic. Because the DR is so mountainous, after sunset the heavy cold air from the mountain top falls to sea level (Katabatic Wind) and causes a stall of the trade winds within a 3 to 5 mile shadow of the coast. Easting as a result is not difficult under such conditions. Other times, if it is early in the trade wind season, a Norther will come through and allow you to sail on a close reach while going east, but unlike the north shore you will not be on a lee shore and will not have the Atlantic swell and sea to contend with. However, you get to the Northwest Caribbean, you will not be disappointed.

Let’s take a cruise from the eastern end of the Dominican Republic to the western end of Jamaica. In such a cruise we can experience the Caribbean and its culture through three different colonial lenses, Spanish, French and English as well as experience the current contemporary cultures. The DR is filled with inland excursions, extraordinary anchorages and harbors and Latin music and culture. Isle a Vache, Haiti is the best example of Haitian culture in a setting that is both beautiful and safe. The island has no cars, no electric and is equivalent to a visit back in time. Jamaica, “the island of wood and water” as it was called is an experience that has no equal in the Caribbean. It is the center of Caribbean African culture and art and a visit will leave you with impressions that will last a lifetime. The Blue Mountains, Jamaican coffee, Jerk Pork and Chicken and Red Stripe Beer are all a unique experience. Best of all you will see Jamaican smiles and Jamaican sunsets.
How much time the entire trip (Eastern DR to Western Jamaica) would take depends on how much detail you want out of the trip, but an entire cruising season (November through June) would not be too much.

We find ourselves anchored off of the south eastern end of the Dominican Republic at the island of Saona. The island is part of a national park reserve and is virgin. There are no hotels or infrastructure. Over the 42 square miles of the island, you will find only a few small settlements and fishermen shacks.

Day trippers take tourists (from Bayahibe just to the west) to the island to spend the day on both catamarans as well as on powerboats. The sand on the beach is as white as you will find in the Caribbean and the water turquoise and clear. We are anchored in 10’ of water at the NW corner of the island and will spend the day gunkholing “Paso de Catuano” which is the pass between the mainland of the DR and the Island of Saona. There are two cays at the eastern end facing the Mona Passage and we can spend our day there swimming and exploring. We were fortunate in the morning to hail a Dominican fisherman to our boat and purchased some beautiful fresh snapper for a price that we did not expect (pleasantly). When we returned to the boat we cooked fresh fish with rice before watching a great sunset to the West as we listened to Bachata. In the morning we head a few miles west and call at the Casa de Campo Marina. This will be our splurge on this part of the trip. After getting our slip assignment, we spend the rest of the day in the marina area which is fashioned after Portofino, Italy. We will take a little lunch in the courtyard with beautiful views of the harbor. The next morning we can go to Altos de Chavon, which is located within the Casa de Campo complex.

It is a 16th century replica of a Mediterranean town complete with Coliseum. As we walk the cobble stone streets we notice that we are elevated and that we have wonderful views of the river and areas below. The following morning we continue west. We have the current with us as well as a 20 knot easterly which is the prevailing tradewind. We head for Boca Chica which is a harbor located just a few miles east of Santo Domingo, the capital of the Dominican Republic. The sail is good and we can make Boca Chica easily by mid afternoon. Once inside the harbor we can anchor or take a mooring or slip at the marina facilities which are new and very accommodating. Boca Chica is a tourist town filled with Latin music and restaurants. There are miles of white sand beaches. From Boca Chica we can easily access Santo Domingo where we can visit the old colonial city. Santo Domingo is so large and so modern that we can also restock our boat at any one of the immense supermarkets as well as hunt down some replacement parts we made need. If we are inclined we can head the following day inland and visit the mountain towns of Jarabacoa and Costanza. The DR has the highest mountain range in the Caribbean with Pico Duarte being over 10,000 feet high. The mountain towns are filled with artist colonies and waterfalls as well as beautiful panoramas. From Boca Chica we head west to Las Salinas and Palmar de Ocoa (Province of Bani). These two towns are located at the east side of the bay just west of Punta Beata.

PALMAR DE OCOA

Both Las Salinas as well as Palmar de Ocoa, 6 miles north of Las Salinas are small towns in the south of the DR, which area is largely agricultural. The scenery and the anchorages are beyond description.
Across the bay is the town of Barahona (province of Barahona). If we choose to sail across the bay we can obtain a safe anchorage close to the Coast Guard Station and then make our excursion inland to Largo Enriquillo. Lake Enriquillo (Spanish: Lago Enriquillo) is a lake in the Dominican Republic and is the largest lake and lowest point in the Caribbean and the lowest point on any ocean island. It is one of only a few saltwater lakes in the world inhabited by crocodiles.

CROCODILE SMILES

You will find the vast majority of them going about their business on Isla Cabritos; an island in the lake. There is also a plethora of other wildlife.
Once we depart from Barahona we head down bay to Isla Beata; a short sail of just a few hours with the wind on our beam or aft of it. We can cut through the Beata channel which carries a controlling depth of about 12’. Once through the channel we round up at the northwest corner of the island and drop anchor in 10’ of crystal clear water. We wonder why there are no other sailboats anchored here. The boat is still and the fishermen have finished for the day. We watch the sunset to the west and call it a day.

Tomorrow we make our last port of call in the DR. Bahia de las Aguilas(province of Perdenales). It is less than a two hour sail north of Isla Beata. The Bay of Eagles is a bay of approximately 5 miles span. There are no roads or homes or hotels. You will see only a white sand beach and miles of it. Our anchor will drop in clear, clear water and we will be protected from wind and sea in normal tradewind conditions.

There are a few fishermen going about their business, but otherwise no one else is there. After we have anchored in the northwest part of the bay we can dinghy to the beach where we find no footsteps in the sand.

For those that have yet to cruise the Dominican Republic, there are a number of questions that should be addressed. You do not need to speak Spanish but if you do speak a little, it is helpful. As far as safety is concerned, I know of no reports of any attack against a cruising sailboat in the Dominican Republic. Some ports have had reported dinghy and motor theft, but not where proper prevention was taken. The authorities are friendly but can appear intimidating as they are in military uniform. Most are quite nice; a few will try to push you for tips and gifts. Clearing in and out of the DR is fairly straightforward and can be accomplished in anyone of many ports in the country.

Once turned stern to the water, the hoist wheels are lined up with the ways. The fact that the sides of the hoist are connected only at the top (the white crosspiece) and only at one end (to allow for masts) makes this akin to inline skating.

Since the (boat) load is supported only by two slings, it can potentially act like a giant swing, a tendency the operator dampens by moving slowly and stopping gently at the least indication of sway.

With both sets of wheels squarely on the ways, the hoist moves out to optimum position for lowering the boat into the pit.

The operator slowly – that word yet again – lowers the boat into the water; the rudder disappears beneath the surface. When the slings slacken, she floats. Workers move in to complete last tasks before letting the boat float free.

In case you’re wondering how slow is slow, the elapsed time from the first photo to the last was one hour. The care taken at every roll of the wheels and in lowering the boat into the pit ensures a happy boat and a happy owner.

If you and your boat haven’t personally experienced a haul with a large marine hoist, when you visit Marina Zar Par, ask if one is scheduled and then bring the popcorn, take a seat, and watch.
And if you need a 70 ton, 28’ (8.4 m) hoist for your boat, why not plan a stopover in Boca Chica to take advantage of Marina Zar Par workhorse?

Discussions on Clearing in Procedures

To enter the Dominican Republic you must arrive at a “Puerto Habilitado”.  This is a port that has Immigration, Coast Guard, Customs and other officials available.  On the North Shore this includes: Manzanillo, Luperon and Puerto Plata. If you arrive at Monticristi, they will send to Manzanillo for Immigration for you.

On the East Coast you can clear in or out at Santa Barbara de Samana, as well as Cap Cana and Punta Cana.

On the south Coast you can clear in or out at Las Salinas, Santo Domingo, Boca Chica and Casa de Campo.

Remember to fly your yellow Quarantine flag.  You will be met by: Marina Guerra (Coast Guard), M-2 (Intelligence), Dept. of Drugs, and Immigration.  In Samana you will also meet Dept. of Ports.

The Coast Guard will want to see your boat registration and your passports.  When they are finished with them, M-2 and Dept. of Drugs may want to search the boat.  This is usually cursory.  Then Immigration will want to stamp your passports and issue you Visas which are good for 30 days.  The entrance of your boat costs a one time charge of $43.00 US.  Each Visa costs $10.00 US and can be renewed easily for another 30 days.  ASIDE from paying Immigration there is no charge for any of the other services and you are NOT REQUIRED TO TIP unless you so desire.

Some of the clearence facilities are located at Marinas such as CapCana, Ocean World, Casa de Campo and Marina ZarPar.  These marinas may charge fees to offset the cost of the resident immigration and coast guard office.  These facilities and their cost are not paid for by the government.  The average cost of the charges can be in the range of $100.00 US.

In Samana and sometimes in Luperon, Dept. of Ports will try to assess a charge of $.70 US per foot for anchoring.  This is not an appropriate charge.  Ports has jurisdiction only over Federal Docks in the country (Law 519-5), and if you are not at a Federal Dock, POLITELY refuse to pay the charge.  They cannot enforce it, as the Coast Guard has harbor jurisdiction and not the dept. of Ports.

This site has a link to “Marina Guerra”.  Use it to let the Coast Guard know how your experience in the country was regarding their services.  In addition, keep in mind that when you leave a harbor, whether it is to go to another harbor or to go to another country, you must get a DESPACHO from the Coast Guard (It is free; however a tip of 500 pesos is considered normal and appropriate for this service).  The DESPACHO  is usually requested the day prior to your departure.  If you are traveling to another port in the DR, the DESPACHO will be to the next port that has clearance facilities (puerto habilitado).  If you choose to stop between “Puertos Habilitado”, you must have a simple reason, such as you are taking a rest from the wind etc.  Show your papers when approached and remain polite.  It is unlikely you will have a problem, although you may be asked for a tip.  If such is the case, pay the tip after speaking for a while and only when the discussion is concluded.  If you choose not to tip, remain gracious and courteous; such comportment is highly valued in the DR by all Dominicans at all levels.  It is inbred into the culture not to be rude or rushed!

I am pleased to announce the release of this book.  The book covers the various routes from North America to the Caribbean as well as cruising through the Caribbean in “Quadrants”.

You can download the first chapter FREE at www.freecruisingguide.com or you can purchase it in Kindle EPub format at www.amazon.com or other EPub bookstores

See below the comments made about the book from important members of the Caribbean Boating Community

Sue Richards, editor of Noonsite (www.noonsite.com) says of the book:

Frank Virgintino, author of numerous Free Cruising Guides for the Caribbean, has been working on “A Thinking Mans Guide to Voyages South” for almost a year. Roughly 200 pages long, the Guide addresses everything North American sailors need to know to get to the Caribbean safely through a discussion of various routes from North America to the Caribbean as well as a discussion of the entire Caribbean – which the author breaks down into four quadrants.The author hopes that the Guide will allow for a clearer understanding of the entire Caribbean as well as the various routes that can be employed. Additionally, that cruising the Caribbean in “Quadrants” will make the entire journey easier to understand. For every sailor that has ever dreamed of cruising to the Caribbean and in the Caribbean, this book is a comprehensive and in depth review of all aspects. Not only does it cover routes to the Caribbean from N. America and cruising routes around the Caribbean, it also looks at all aspects of preparation, weather and Gulf Stream information, safety and security and local knowledge and advice imparted by someone who has cruised the Caribbean extensively for many years.

This is a worthy read and useful reference for all Caribbean cruisers, not just those hailing from N America. A welcome update to “A Gentlemans’ Guide to Passages South”, by Bruce Van Sant.

From ALL AT SEA MAGAZINE

“At last here’s an up to date in-depth guide for those making a voyage
to the Caribbean. Rich in detail and packed with drawings and maps,
not only will this book help you get to one of the world’s most
beautiful cruising grounds, Virgintino will keep you entertained while
doing it.”

– Gary E. Brown, Editorial Director of All At Sea Magazine.

And from CARIBBEAN COMPASS   Sally Erdle, Editor

Like respected authors before him, Frank Virgintino presents comprehensive advice on just about everything North American sailors will need to know get to the Caribbean safely and enjoy a cruise here. The big difference is that Virgintino takes a wide-angled look at sailing to and cruising in the Caribbean — the WHOLE Caribbean. This was last done by Hart and Stone in 1976 (revised in 1991), and Virgintino’s fresh perspective on the big picture is a gift.
Virgintino urges cruisers to get off “the beaten paths” (thorny or not) and consider a number of viable routes from various jumping-off points on the East Coast to various “entrances” into, and landfalls in, the Caribbean. His division of the Caribbean into four quadrants is a neat and functional way of comprehending this vast cruising area, and of getting over the idea that the Lesser Antilles alone are “the Caribbean”.
Kudos to “A Thinking Man’s Guide” for its wide embrace of the entire Caribbean!

I very much hope that you enjoy this reading this book as much as I enjoyed writing it.  I look forward to any comments you may have, pro or con.

Happy Sailing, Frank Virgintino, Author~Free Cruising Guides

The DR has three coasts.  North Coast,  East Coast and South Coast.

NORTH COAST

The North Coast has wonderful harbors on the western end (Monticristi and Manzanillo).  However, from Luperon going East, the north coast is an extremely difficult coast.  The waters of the Atlantic are rough and when the trade winds are blowing or a “norther” comes down from the United States, the North Coast is beyond difficult; it can be outright dangerous.  There really is no place to stop east of Luperon that is safe and when the wind is from the NE or from the E with seas from the NE, the entirety of the North Coast is not tenable.  You will find yourself riding big seas on a windbound coast.  To transit the north coast one needs to be an experienced sailor.  If you rely on your motor, it must be in good condition and your tank and filters clean.  Spare filters should be kept handy and all other precautions should be taken.  And one must understand weather beyond casually.  You must understand the interaction of a “norther” coming down from the States and the Katabatic winds that come off shore at night.  The biggest cape that you will pass on this transit is Cape “Frances Viejo”.  It means in English, Cape old Frenchman.  He probably got old trying to pass the cape as it seems to take forever to do so.

The key to the north shore, is prepare, prepare and prepare or avoid the coast entirely.

EAST COAST

BE VERY CAREFUL ON THIS COAST!

The East Coast has one grand and beautiful harbor at the NE end.  It is the Bay of Samana.  In the bay is the wonderful town of Santa Barbara and the incredible national park, Los Haitises.  There are also many other anchorages and quaint towns up bay and in addition at the entrance of the bay is Cayo Levantado; a wonderful day anchorage for swimming, fresh fish, wonderful beach etc.

The Bay of Samana lies between Cabo Cabron and Cabo Engano.  Translated  it means essentially Cape Lie and Cape Cheat.  I have no question as to how these capes got their names.  They are difficult and hard to predict and both have bad reputations.  Going south from Samana, whether you go due south or southeast to Puerto Rico, it requires careful planning.  The east coast of the Dominican Republic and the Mona Passage, can be violent and dangerous.  It is not a place for novice sailors.  It is a haunting coast of shifting sandbars and unpredictable currents.  Where winds change direction as they bounce off the capes and can accelerate to double their velocity.  The marinas on the East Coast, Punta Cana and CapCana have narrow shallow entrances that are difficult in settled weather and impossible if a sea is running from the NE or east.  The small anchorage Punta Macao is anything but an anchorage.  It is a niche in the beach and to use it the weather has to be very settled and preferably from the SE, which is rare early in the season.

SOUTH COAST

Nothing in life is perfect, but the south coast of the DR is as good as it gets.  First you are in the lee of the big island of Hispaniola.  The western part of the south coast is further sheltered by the extensive cape at Beata.

The Caribbean sea is more “user friendly” than the Atlantic Ocean.  At the west end of the south coast there is Bahia Las Aguillas; absolutely stunning.  The Island Isla Beata is easy to anchor behind, out of the trade winds, and is as close to idyllic as it gets.  Going east from Isla Beata is what amounts to be a large bay.  On the west side is the town of Barahona which is close to Largo Enriquillo (the only sub sea level lake in the Caribbean.  A national park with live crocodiles and very unexplored).  The east side of the “bay” hosts Palmar de Ocoa and Las Salinas; both beautiful and excellent stops.  From Las Salinas there is a nice day stop along the way called Punta Palenque and from there only a short distance to Boca Chica.  Boca Chica is a wonderful Dominican Tourist town and it is very close both to the International Airport (Las Americas) and the capital of Santo Domingo which is well worth seeing and in particular the “old city”.

After Boca Chica is the Rio Cumayasa, as well as Isla Catalina, Casa de Campo and Isla Saona; each different and each interesting depending on your taste and desires.

While one must always be alert at sea, the South Coast of the DR is truly user friendly and I believe you will agree that you will find a plethora of cruising opportunities along its shores.

SAMANA (Santa Barbara)   Lat 19.11. N   Lon  69.19 W

After anchoring a small local boat filled with officials came alongside.  They included: Marina Guerra (Coast Guard), M-2 (Intelligence), Migration (Immigration), Portuario (Ports), Aduana (Customs) and Drugs.  All were pleasant and went about their work.

First I gave my “Despacho” from my previous port to the Marina Guerra Officer.  He accepted it and that completed his work.  Next Immigration wanted to see our passports to see if they had been stamped when we entered the country.  No problem with that.  She inspected them and found them properly stamped.  However she did ask for a receipt form from Immigration at the prior port which we were not given, and accepted the explanation that we were not given one.  The important thing is that the passports had been stamped.  (When you clear in BE SURE your passports are stamped).  Drugs and Intelligence then asked to inspected the boat.  I gave them the go ahead and remained with them.  Their inspection was cursory and lasted less than 5 minutes.  They were very polite and careful.

Lastly, Ports asked for a fee of $.70 US per foot for anchoring.  This is a one time fee.  I explained that the fee under the law only applies to using a Dock (called MUELLE) in the DR.  As there was no dock and we were not tied to a dock, the fee was not applicable.  I was very polite and explained it carefully in Spanish.  However, had I explained it in English they would have understood anyway.  The representative from Ports then told me that if I did not want to pay, I would have to come ashore to see her supervisor.  I agreed and everyone departed.  An hour later I arrived at the Ports building and went in to see the supervisor.  The representative who had spoken with me earlier was also there as well as 3 or 4 other “assistants”.  I explained that the law did not apply to anchoring and that the only port in the DR that was assessing seventy cents US per foot was Samana and that the charge was not called for.  The supervisor called his superior and told him that he had a fellow who did not want to pay because he contended that the law did not apply (Law 519-5).  I do not know what the supervisor told him, but I was allowed to leave without paying.

The TRUTH is that the Ports charge IS ONLY for using a DOCK (Muelle pronounced Mway yah), owned by the governmentand the charge of seventy cents US is per foot for up to 24 hours.  I once used the dock in Barahona to load my groceries which took about 15 minutes and they made me pay for the entire day.  Ports is a commercial government agency accustomed to working with commercial boats.  In the case of Santa Barbara Samana, the charge is uncalled for and illegal.   You can pay the charge or politely refuse at which point they will ask you to come to the Ports building to speak with the supervisor.

However, I recommend that you do not miss Santa Barbara de Samana.  The town was founded by freed American slaves in the mid 1850s and there was more freed slave immigration from the United States as time went by.  The town itself is remote, and while it is a Dominican town by any standard, it is not a typical Dominican town in so many ways, least of all its “hybrid culture”.

Santa Barbara de Samana

The town area is alive with life and movement and you can take a rickshaw (motor concho with covered roof)  for 35 pesos ($1.00 US) for 1 one person or 40 pesos for two, which will take you from one side of town to the other.  At the west end of town you will find the supermarket and the open fruit and vegetable market.  This particular fruit and vegetable market is my favorite in the entire country.  You will not believe the variety of produce that you see or the prices being asked (inexpensive).  Beautiful Avocados (large) for .60 US each.  Sweet eating oranges 12 for 25 pesos (about .80 US).  Bananas at about .12 to .15 cents US each depending on size.  Root vegetable, carrots the size of a small baseball bat, Sweet Potatos the size of a soccer ball.  Fresh honey sold in recycled rum bottles.  If you make a large purchase do not forget to ask for your lagniappe (free extra—it is customary and will gain you respect).

As you walk east down the main drag you will come to a row of brightly colored Victorian buildings which house banking services, restaurant, art shop and other stores of interest.  Along the way there are also banks with ATM machines.  There is also a Western Union office.  There are car rental services should you choose to rent a car.  You can make a day trip to the famous waterfalls at El Limon.  There is also a small whale museum in town.

There has been reported dinghy and dinghy motor theft in Santa Barbara, so be sure to secure your dinghy at night.  The harbor is otherwise secure from the weather and easy to anchor in.  There is a small reef at the NE side of the harbor where the water drops below 6 feet.  And there are many spots in the harbor where the average depth is 20 feet.    Do not anchor in what is the obvious but unmarked channel as there is ferryboat traffic.  There is no dinghy dock, but you can access a ladder at the town dock.  If you leave your dinghy there be sure to chain it and the motor.  Also would be a good idea to ask the guard to watch it for you and give him a tip when you return.  ($3.00 to $5.00 US depending on how long he watches it for you).

From Santa Barbara de Samana you can get a Despacho to go to Los Haitises National Park (Bahia San Lorenzo)  which is a “Do not miss destination”.  One of the best and most beautiful anchorages in the world, and Native American cave art to see as well.

From the town of Samana,  you can also spend a delightful day at Cayo Levantado anchored in front of the beach.  Fresh fish and music make for a perfect day.  You cannot stay anchored at Cayo Levantado for the night and must go back to Santa Barbara.

Once you decide to leave Samana Bay you can go north and west to explore the north shore of the DR with the wind behind you.  Or you can cross the Mona Passage on your way to Puerto Rico.  Or you can head south and west to Isla Saona at the SW corner of the DR and then explore the south coast of the DR with its numerous anchorages and harbors.  Be sure to get your “Despacho” before you depart.  If you are going south to see more of the DR, your Despacho would be to Cap Cana or to Casa de Campo or Boca Chica.  Despachos are only issued to “Puertos Habilitado” (Ports that have full immigration, customs and coast guard facilities).  If you are going north shore of the DR your despacho will be to Puerto Plata (Ocean World) or Luperon or Manzanillo.

If you have the time, explore the entire Bay of Samana, especially if you like out of the way quaint anchorages that are part of very small towns.  I have cruised the Bay of Samana extensively many times and have never once seen a cruising sailboat beyond Los Haitises National Park.

BAY OF SAMANA

Bienvenido a LA REPUBLICA DOMINICANA.  Welcome to the Dominican Republic.

There are a great number of reasons to go cruising in a sailboat.  One of them is the natural beauty that we come upon from time to time.  Of course everyone’s definition of the perfect  anchorage is different, and that in itself makes it worth the effort to sail on to find the next really great anchorage.

The Dominican Republic is a very large island.  It also is an island that has not had a great deal of traffic from the cruising community.  Most yachtsmen use the DR as a stopping place on their way to the “Caribbean Islands” down south.  This is unfortunate because the DR is exceptional and should not be missed.

Sailors leaving the US route for the Virgin Islands, and those that do pass through the Bahamas and the Turks and Caicos, then take the north shore of the DR to make their easting.  The north shore of the DR is a very difficult and very dangerous coast and really should not be transited unless one is going west.  The south coast of the DR is in the “lee” of the island which offers a great deal more protection.  In addition there is one fine harbor after another on the south side.

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THERE ARE MANY FINE ANCHORAGES IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC.  THIS ARTICLE HIGHLIGHTS THREE OF THEM.

BAHIA DE LAS AGUILAS    17.50.246N, 071.37.982W    Bahia de las Aguilas (YOU TUBE LINK in Spanish-GREAT VIEWS)

BAHIA DE SAN LORENZO (Los Haitises National Park) is located at the Northeast end of the island. 19°.05.79N 69°29.19W   cave drawings

Isla Saona is located at the Southeast end of the Dominican Republic. 18°11.98N 68°46.72W  Saona Island

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BAHIA DE LAS AGUILAS     17.50.246N, 071.37.982W    Bahia de las Aguilas (YOU TUBE LINK in Spanish-GREAT VIEWS)

The bay is large (more than a mile across) and has an average depth of 10′.  It is pristine and well protected from all winds but SW, which is a very rare occurrence.  This bay has no residential homes, there are no clearance facilities and in fact there are virtually no roads to access the beach.   If you do not like being alone, this is not your anchorage.  However, if you like solitude, and an absolutely virgin anchorage this is it.  You can swim, fish and walk along the beautiful beach.  Your sense will be that you have gone back in time 50 or more years.

BAHIA DE SAN LORENZO (Los Haitises National Park)  19°.05.79N 69°29.19W

At the northeast side of the DR is a bay called Samana.  Many sailors know it because they stop there after leaving Luperon on their way east.  The town where most sailors call is known as Santa Barbara de Samana.  Just south and slightly west of Santa Barbara is the Los Haitises national park.  It has nothing to do with the country of Haiti and is not located anywhere near Haiti.  What it is is a bay within Samana bay.  The bay is called Bahia de San Lorenzo  .This harbor has been overlooked by cruising sailors and most often you will find you are the only boat there.  It is an anchorage that is protected on all 4 sides.  You anchor in 7 to 10 feet of water.  The views from the anchorage have few equals in the world of cruising boats.  It is also exotic in that ancient Native American caves are available to be entered and explored.  The walls of the caves have authentic pictographs.  This anchorage is one of the best kept secrets in the Caribbean.  Actually it is not even a kept secret; more like no one is interested because most cruisers are in such a hurry to go “down south”.                                 cave drawings (follow this link to see more cave drawings)

The natural beauty of the anchorage at ‘Los Haitises” defies verbal description.  Rock formations, fauna, flamingos are all here for you to see in their natural habitat.

And what is really remarkable, is that most often you will find yourself alone at this anchorage.

ISLA SAONA      18°11.98N 68°46.72W

Isla Saona is located at the Southeast corner of the Dominican Republic.  It is an island and also a national park.  One can spend a week or more here, swimming, buying local fish, exploring the cays and the island and never grow tired.  Everyday, boats leave from Bayahibe with tourists who visit the island for the day.  They will pass your anchorage in the morning and pass you again as they return in the evening.

Saona Island (YOU TUBE LINK to see a day at Saona island)

Cruising is an art and a big part of the art is getting somewhere.  The above anchorages are exceptional “somewheres” to get to.  Don’t miss the opportunity, for one day when everyone wakes up, the opportunity to see these harbors in their natural state will no longer exist.

You do not have to speak Spanish when you are in the Domnican Republic.  Many Dominicans speak English as well as many other languages.

However, if you have a basic grasp of words and phrases, it will help you communicate more effectively and additionally demonstrates your willingness to bond with the culture.

Dominicans speak their Spanish loud and fast and it is easy to become intimidated.  You can say:  Mas lento, por favor (please, more slow).  Pronounce your words, whether you are using English or Spanish slowly so that those you are speaking with can understand you.  Remember, in Caribbean Spanish, the S is most often not pronounced.  So that ES POSA becomes E POSA  (wife).  That is why when you hear the phrase, “Como tu estas”? it sounds like “Como tu Ta”.  It is best at least at the outset, that you speak your Spanish in classroom style.  If you try to speak it as if you are a local, the reply will be to you as a local and you will very likely be lost.  About 1/3 of the Dominican economy is based on tourism and as a result, Dominicans have tremendous patience for tourists.  What is most important is that you always maintain a friendly comportment and never ever lose your patience, regardless of what has happened.  If you do (lose your patience), you will make matters ever so much worse!

COMMON VERBS

COMMON NOUNS

A FEW TRICKS

There are two verbs for being in Spanish.  SER AND ESTAR.  Ser is permanent and Estar is temporary.

When declined it makes sense.  Yo Soy Hombre (I am a man).  Yo Estoy Aqui (I am here).   In the first case I am a man and that is a permanent condition (at least it was when I was growing up!).  the second is a temporary condition, in that I am here and later I can be there or somewhere else.

Also to get future tense, rather than have to decline verbs in the future tense, which is a whole other tense to remember, you can use the Verb to go.  The verb to go is IR.  It is declined as Yo Voy (I go) and tu Vas (you go) and El or Ella Va (he or she goes).  Thus one can say, Me Voy a comer (I will go to eat) as compared to Yo estoy comiendo (I am eating) or Yo como (I eat).  You can add the verb to go, in the tense you want to any other verb that is not declined and have the future.  Simple as that.

PHRASES DOMINICANS LIKE

Si Dios Quieres!       If God wants……..add this after you say ANYTHING.  It demonstrates that you are not arrogant.

Propina or Ceilito     A small tip.  Ones little piece of heaven.

Amorcito or Amorcita      My little love.  Masculine & Feminine.

Por favor                       Please

Ayudarme un chin   Help me a little   ( i you da me un chin)

Que Dios te Bendigas  God Bless You   (If someone says that to you, you respond, AMEN)

Que Tenga  buen dia      have a good day

Te Veo Manana              See you tomorrow

When all else fails, always remember that you can use SPANGLISH.

Spanlish is a corruption of English and Spanish and uses popular words that everyone understands.  For instance Jacket can become Jacketa.  In other words, use whatever spanish you know, use English for what you don’t know and improvise in between.

When asked or pushed for a tip that you do not want to pay, you can respond, lo siento (I am sorry) but I no hava cash.  Ahorrita!  (Perhaps a little later and maybe never).   Always be sure to say I am sorry before you disappoint someone…good manners…lo Siento.

Never waive anyone off who asks for money.  You do not have to stop and have a conversation, but do not be rude.  Smile and keep walking and rub your your forefinger and thumb together and nod NO that you do not have any money.  Why look for problems?

If you do decide to give a tip, never remove a wad of cash from your pocket.  Have tip money set aside for the moment and be able to fish it out in an exact amount.

The best language in any foreign country and it works really well in the Dominican Republic is gentleness, patience and a willingness to go with the flow.  Remember YOU ARE A GUEST in someone else’s country.  You are just visiting!